ELDERLUXE prides itself on the collection of luxury products we have assembled- all designed to complement the discerning tastes and desires of our cherished customers. We all know that aging is directly impacted by how active we remain in our later years: mentally, physically, spiritually and even sexually. Our philosophy is centered around maintaining an active and vibrant lifestyle while aging as adults.
I know I found a cache in a small bamboo forrest last year but I can not find it again.ELDERLUXE is dedicated to serving the needs and lifestyle of our customers in their search for ways to age most positively and actively. I think I am going to start using bamboo for all my walking sticks as it is real light and strong, I have been looking for an area that I can get some to start drying it when it wears out I will just toss it in the trash. But I only use mine on fairly flat ground we don't have a lot of mountains in Texas or ice for that matter. I usually don't put a tip on my walking sticks I just let them wear down which takes many years, when I have a real nice one that I have carved and finished I take a washer just a little smaller than the stick and drill a pilot hole in the bottom of the stick and screw in a hex wood bolt just make sure your pilot hole is big enough or you can split the wook. I see many people use rubber cane tips, but is there a way to get a carbide tip? Anyone have any suggestions? I have seen some online vendors which sell wood sticks which have a carbide tip which appears to be a hammer on type. I have a Leki but a homebrew would be fun. I've fashioned many along the way on hikes before (always fallen branches) but would like to make a more custom one. Hopefully you have a bench grinder, but you can now file or grind the head of the screw to a more useful rounded tip.įor good measure to keep the copper on, I pour some glue down into the space between the wood and the copper.Īll this talk about walking sticks has me thinking about making one. Now, drill a pilot hole of the appropriate size for your lag screw into the center of the wood at the now copper-clad end. If the wood doesn't stick out, so much the better. Once the copper adapter is firmly screwed on, cut off any wood sticking out beyond the metal. so the copper can cut threads into the wood.
Otherwise, you will need to tighten it up, and loosen it, screw it on a bit tighter and loosen it, etc.
If you have access to a pipe threader, you could use it to pre-cut the threads. You might want to use some Gorilla glue (or something like it) here for good measure. Remember, the threaded part of the copper adapter is tapered, that is, it's a bit wider at the top end than it is down inside at the 'bottom'.Ĭlamp your stick in a vise, or get some friends with strong hands to hold it for you while you screw the copper fitting onto the stick. Taper the section of your stick above this part to a profile that will be a bit bigger than the inside bore of the threaded end. Create a section that is about as long as the un-threaded part of the copper adapter. Using files, rasps and implements of destruction, carve the very tip of your stick down until it will fit inside the straight bore of the adapter that is opposite the threaded end. I don't think you really need a carbide tip!ĭepending on the size of your stick, go to your local plumbing supply/hardware store and get a 1/2" or 3/4" copper Female adapter, and a 1/4" or 5/16" x 2 1/2" stainless steel hex head lag screw.
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